The Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon
In July of
2005, my husband and I made our usual trip to New Mexico and Utah. The thing I was looking forward to the
most was our planned hike to the Great Gallery pictographs in Utah. The Great Gallery is located in Horseshoe
Canyon in a very isolated area of Canyonlands National Park near the Maze district. There are actually
four pictograph panels in Horseshoe Canyon, but the Great Gallery is considered by many archaeologists to be the finest display
of pictographs in the United States. The pictographs in Horseshow Canyon are called Barrier Canyon Style rock art.
They are primarily made up of tapering, ornate figures that are often armless and legless. Many of these figures
have a ghost-like appearance. These panels are believed to be between 2000 and 8000 years old.
Most articles I read described a hike of
approximately 7 1/2 miles round trip with a descent of about 700 feet into the canyon. Not too bad, except that we were
going to do this in July when the weather is hot, but due to work schedules, we had no other choice. So we spent the
night before our hike in the small town of Hanksville at the Whispering Sands Motel. We got up at 4:00 a.m. and my sister,
Terrie, drove us to the trailhead. We arrived as the sun was coming up and started down the trail at 6:35 a.m.
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| Trail down into the Horseshoe Canyon |
After about 30 minutes of hiking, I finally arrived at the floor of the canyon. I stopped
to wait on my husband, Tommy, who was not quite as enthusiastic as I was about this hike, especially since the local
news forecast was for higher than normal temperatures for the day. At this time, however, it
was still cool outside and the canyon was beautiful. Still, in the back of my mind I was already thinking
about how hot it would be later when I made the hike back up.
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| Trail down into Horseshoe Canyon |
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| Arriving at the canyon floor |
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| Tommy arriving in the canyon floor |
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| Heading up Horseshoe Canyon in the early morning |
We began our hike through the canyon.
After a very short distance, we arrived at the first pictograph panel. The only panel located on the left side of the
canyon, this one is called High Gallery. I stopped to take a few pictures and study the pictographs for a few minutes.
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| High Gallery |
We continued on and a few minutes later we came
across the second gallery. This one is called Horseshoe Shelter Gallery. After looking at these and taking
pictures, we continued our hike. Unfortunately, Tommy became concerned when we approached an area with a lot of
heavy growth along the trail. One of my husband's greatest fears is of snakes. After stopping and studying
the area for a few minutes, he determined that he could not continue as it was just too "snaky" looking for him.
I was disappointed, but I decided that I had come too far to turn back now. I told him I had to go on to see the Great
Gallery and that I would meet him back at the top of the mesa later. At that point, he headed back and I continued my
hike up the canyon alone.
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| Horseshoe Shelter Gallery |
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| Horseshoe Shelter Gallery |
I have to admit that
after initially feeling abandoned by Tommy, I was actually starting to enjoy the solitude and the quiet of
the canyon. I hiked along quickly because I knew Tommy and Terrie would be waiting for me at the top.
About one-half mile further I arrived at the third panel of pictographs known as the Alcove Gallery. Although
there were some interesting figures on this wall, there was also some evidence of vandalism. I stayed here a short time
to rest and look at this site, and then continued on towards the Great Gallery.
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| Alcove Gallery |
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| Trail in Horseshoe Canyon |
It was still early
and still cool in the canyon and I was enjoying the scenery around me. The only problem was much of the canyon
floor was covered with deep, loose sand, and I was beginning to feel it in my legs. I started looking for rocky
areas to walk on to give my legs a rest. Every time the canyon made another turn, I kept hoping that this would be it.
I was beginning to think I would never make it to the Great Gallery. Finally, I came around a bend and there on the
opposite canyon wall staring down at me was the figure that I had seen so many times before in pictures; the one
they often refer to as The Holy Ghost.
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| The Holy Ghost figure at the Great Gallery |
I stood beneath a
cottonwood tree studying the panel and was amazed at the size of it. The entire panel itself is over 100 feet long with
many of the figures being about six feet tall, and the largest figure being approximately 11 feet tall. I spent
some time studying and photographing the many figures. I felt very small standing beneath the panel and
the experience was both incredible and chilling at the same time. Even though I was alone, I felt as though
all of those ghost like figures were watching my every move. I couldn't help but wonder about the people who had
created this magnificent piece of art over 2000 years ago.
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| The Great Gallery |
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| The Great Gallery |
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| Self-portrait at the Great Gallery |
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| The largest figure at the Great Gallery |
After some amount
of time resting and taking pictures of the gallery, I knew I had to head back. I really didn't want to leave,
but I knew Tommy and Terrie would begin to worry if I was gone too long. I strapped my hydration pack back
on and, after one last look at the incredible rock art, I headed back through the canyon. It was still
early and fairly cool, but the sun was beginning to make its way into parts of the canyon and I knew it would heat
up quickly.
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| Heading back out of the canyon |
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| Trail in the canyon floor |
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| Approaching sun bringing with it the heat |
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| Much of the trail was covered with this deep sand |
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| Trail in the canyon floor |
On the way out I met
three other hikers in the canyon heading toward the Great Gallery. We stopped to talk for a few minutes (a welcome rest for
my tired legs) and then moved on. I finally arrived at the spot where you turn to begin your ascent to the mesa top.
It didn't look bad from this angle, but I knew that behind this hill there was a large cliff with a mile of
trail between me and the top. I was ready to be back at my sister's Blazer now, but not sure I was ready for
the climb. As I looked at the mountain before me, there wasn't a hint of shade anywhere.
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| Nearing the trail leading back up to the mesa top |
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| The beginning of the sandy trail back to the mesa top |
After starting up the trail, I realized for
the first time that much of it was covered with the same loose sand that caused me grief in the canyon below.
I hadn't noticed it that morning, but that was probably because I was going downhill, it was cool outside and
I was still full of energy. Now, I was tired, it was becoming incredibly hot and my legs were starting to hurt.
I was thankful nobody was with me to hear me whine. I kept thinking about that big cool cottonwood tree back at
the Great Gallery, but I also kept moving, stopping often to rest. I had started my ascent at 9:30 a.m.
and finally reached the top exactly one hour later. I have never been happier to see my sister's Blazer
then I was at that moment. I grabbed a cold Dr. Pepper from her cooler, climbed into the air conditioning
and pulled off my hiking boots. I was hot, dusty, tired, hungry, my legs and feet hurt, but I couldn't
stop smiling. I was thrilled because I had just had a wonderful experience. I had finally
seen the Great Gallery and it was even more than I had hoped for.
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